drzachary's food blog. lots of cooking and charcuterie, with some nonsense thrown in.

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19th November 2009

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update, just to make one

Nothing worry of comment.  The winter doldrums hit me like a sack of 3-day-old baguettes, and it’s been a lot of kale and soup (and not a small amount of Easy Mac.)

And hey, it’s Hawks season, so most of my ‘nutrition’ has come in this form:

About ten days ago I was operating at 40% happiness, but I’m up to maybe 83% now.  Expect a post soon.

20th October 2009

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deconstructed paella: chicken confit & spring onion puree, paella rice cake & shrimp, fried scallions, smoky red pepper sauce

deconstructed paella: chicken confit & spring onion puree, paella rice cake & shrimp, fried scallions, smoky red pepper sauce

Tagged: deconstructionpaellachicken confitshrimpgreen onionspimentonbetter than chef ronforgot the lemons

20th October 2009

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the reason i buy whole shrimp: fried shrimp heads & hot sauce!

the reason i buy whole shrimp: fried shrimp heads & hot sauce!

Tagged: shrimp headsdeep friedmayor of chubbytownfattysnaxuse everything

20th October 2009

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quick #eaton30 wrap-up

Quick stats about my Eat on 30 experience:

$27.74: my final budget

$16.24: my final budget excluding alcohol (DOH!)

$??.??: the amount you are going to donate to Project Open Hand

(infinity): the amount of face-punches you’ll get you if you don’t!

Threats. It’s How I Roll.(TM)

In all seriousness though, thank you so much to Tami at Running With Tweezers for running this eye-opening project.   And a big thank you to the other participants. I’m glad to have made your e-quaintance.  You all have done a much better job with the spirit and the purpose of the challenge than I’ve done.  Still, I’m looking forward to Eat on 30 Take Three!  Next time I’ll be a little more sensible.

Here’s a picture of my final Eat on 30 breakfast, a Spanish-style tortilla with potatoes, carmelized onions and herbs, as well the remaining 3 oz of my chicken sausage.

Can I get an OM NOM NOM?

Tagged: eaton30eat on 30wrap-uprip-rapping

15th October 2009

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Thursday roundup for Eat on 30, plus a poetic lesson on night cooking

First, the lesson. *waterfall, chirping birds and gong sound*

I make remarkably good fried chicken.  I cooked some last night for lunch today.  I’m not sure what happened, so I’ll write a haiku about it:

on the frying of chicken late at night

why’s it in my hand?

should be cooling on the rack—

damn! it’s in my mouth.

So… I wasn’t hungry at all this morning, and a banana was all I needed.  Lunch was potato-leek soup and some burned, soggy caramelized, marinated eggplant, and dinner was a brined and grilled chicken breast over red leaf lettuce with a splash of vinaigrette.  Total for the week is now $10.38.  I’m supposed to meet a friend at a dive bar to watch the Phillies, so I plan to nurse one Guinness for the entire evening.  (Wish me luck. A lot of it. [First Editor’s note: Alternately, you can wish him a PBR.])

The real excitement, culinarily speaking, is that my chicken drumsticks are now curing (parsley, thyme, garlic, orange zest, green onion, pepper, and lots of salt) for my chicken confit, which will be served with my ‘deconstructed paella’ on Sunday.  Maybe I will fare better than Ron on Top Chef!

BREAKING NEWS: [Second Editor’s note:  Observant readers (in other words, anyone but Zack) will notice that the green onion seems to be absent in the above photo.  It was on the counter, which is a difficult place from which to impart its flavor unto the chicken.  This has now been rectified.]

[Third Editor’s note: I mean what the hell, man, seriously.]

Tagged: confit from a distanceconfitchickensaladseat on 30haikuchickenfailsdrzfailstoo many editors' notestoo many dogs

15th October 2009

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on building blocks, fish heads and my approach to Eat on 30

A few days, a few meals and a few conversations later, I have a lot of thoughts.   Some of them are actually about food and the Eat On 30 project! (Most are about fancy ladies, contemporary dancing and Kanye West.) Time to clumsily up-end the old noodle.  Coincidentally, this post begins with pasta.

Tuesday night, I spent the whole night creating “building blocks,” staples I would use throughout this week (and into the next).  The fresh egg fettucine you see above cost $0.32 in ingredients, and scientists have labeled the quantity indicated as 1 mc (metric crapton.)  It didn’t take much money, but it took time, tools and knowledge.  More on that after this Fox News shock/shlock-style graphic:

I Show You Fish Heads, You Decide(TM). This magnificent bastard is the head (gills removed and carefully rinsed) from my whole tilapia.  Also in the pan are leek tops (otherwise discarded from recipes for things like potato-leek soup), a carrot, salt/pepper and some herb pickings.  I got about two quarts of fish fumet from this guy.  His leering, voyeuristic face was peering out through the veg; his skeleton lurked below the surface, a cliche Dungeons & Dragons encounter waiting to begin.

——-

After a lot of my somewhat-complicated pictures had been posted, I had a pretty detailed discussion with Tami about her — to use a word that is probably harsher than what she meant — objections to my approach.  I freely admit that her method of simple, quick, nutritious and affordable meals speaks more truthfully to the goals of her Eat On 30 project.  It’s her project, after all.

What I realized in the course of this productive conversation is that, while I changed the amount of money I am spending on food, I did not change who I am or how I cook.  To be a little rude and crude, my poverty simulation lacks versimilitude. (Whoa, I just rhymed.)  Greater truthlikeness requires the acknowledgment of other factors besides money: tools, time and knowledge.

Tools: To make the sausage and roll and cut the pasta, I used probably $400 of kitchen equipment.  Truth be told, you could do it all with a knife and a rolling pin, but I didn’t.  Having a meat grinder is an initial investment that is too steep for the food assistance recipient, but allowed me to make sausage: the ultimate waste-no-scrap food (and also the food that makes me consider the possibility of angels, heavens and gods for an oh-so-brief instant.)  On an even more basic level, I have sharp knives and a stove … lots of people don’t even have those things.  Though it is not my place to make this suggestion, maybe this factor could be limited in future challenges.  Tools could be allotted as well as the food budget: one saute pan, one stockpot, one knife, one spatula, one peeler, one colander, etc.  And you have to use the microwave.

Time: I am lucky to have a somewhat flexible job that gives me ample time to cook, especially on the weekends and in the evenings.  My old job was not as flexible, but in the interests of full disclosure, I will admit to taking several ‘sick days’ to stay at home and make stock.  (Sorry, Dan.) I also only work one job (for the time being, but there’s a certain Chapter that has something to say about that) .  Cooking, for me, is recreation, even cooking “on 30.”  Especially cooking lone-wolf-that-rides-alone style, like some sort of duckfat-doused, amped-up culinary Rambo, I would not be able to get by without a lot of time to spend.  Future challenge idea: time limits, and no cooking in advance?

Knowledge: This is the biggie, and it’s hard to compare what I know with what a hypothetical/archetypal person would know.    Would he know what to do with a pork belly?  I would hope so; this knowledge lies deep within all of us, clinging to our genes like remora, waiting to roar to the surface in a frenzied tsunami of saliva and gnashing teeth.  Would he know how to clean a squid?  (I didn’t; I had to look it up, but I picked it up quickly.)  Would they know the basics of stock-making?  Maybe. Would he know how to season, chill, grind and mix a sausage?  Mehhhhhh.  This is how I cook.  This is not how others necessarily cook.  One of Tami’s thoughtful and beautiful ideas — and she has many — is to organize an adult cooking class, emphasizing on the kind of foods made for Eat on 30.  (Well, not the kinds of food I make.)  Though time would be a factor, she suggested that it could piggyback off of church services.  Church came to mind immediately for me, too.  (Tangent: what does it say about me that when I thought “where would people without knowledge congregate?” I immediately thought of a church.  What a biased jerk I have become!)  Future challenge idea: hell, beats me!  Nothing requiring a specialized tool?

Here’s the thing.  To mutate a phrase from everyone’s least-favorite Supreme Court nominee, do these restrictions send us Slouching Towards McDonald’s?  Let’s hope we can Bork that idea.

——-

Another thought that has colored my approach is, what I believe, the innate disadvantage in cooking for one.  Evolutionary and gustatory urges drive us towards a varied diet, but the budget for one person for a week makes that more difficult.  Food, especially cheap food, is sold in quantities large enough to feed one person for four meals (a head of cabbage, a slab of pork, a package of premade pasta).  This may seem Nitpick McGinty and insulting to the actually-hungry, but eating the same thing for four meals sucks.  My personal challenge has become something more like Eat On 40 For Two Weeks Or At The Very Least Don’t Spend So Damn Much, and I am pretty sure I can meet that goal.  Everything I’ve made so far easily feeds two (and I’ve given away a bit of it already) and I’ve been freezing leftovers for next week.   If I was cooking for two, the menu would be less repetitive.  (Filed under: suck it up, Zack.)

——-

It is hard to leave old habits behind, and harder still to try and LARP someone else when I cook.  If you’re curious, here is what five cents’ worth of that pasta, one fourth of that stock, some seafood and some basic tomato sauce became:

Zuppe di Pesce with squid, tilapia and giant shrimp the size of Miley Cyrus (thirty cents worth of shrimp, FYI) over fettucine.  The bowl ran me $1.28, but a shameful amount of time, tools and knowledge.

Tagged: eat on 30seafoodfumetpastashamemissing the pointdid it wrongbuilding blocksstocktoo many tagstoo many dogstoo much timetoo many toolstoo much knowledge

13th October 2009

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breakfast, #eaton30 style (or not)

Today I had one of the best breakfasts of recent memory.  My usual breakfast is healthy yogurt and fruit or granola or maybe french toast, or a bloody mary, or a red bull and a bag of beef jerky, or a hot dog, or room temperature Antico pizza, or deep breaths while clutching my head.

Today I made this:

That’s three ounces of my chicken sausage (two patties), a whole potato, pan-fried with garlic and herbs, and some scallion scrambled eggs.  The fat all came from the sausage, again.  Not pictured was a whole milk/banana/honey smoothie.  I think I would rather eat my own face than eat another plain banana today.

I have been feeling really good today, and I am not sure if it was the robust breakfast, the absence of hanging out late at unsavory locales with friends (an activity I endorse on days that end in ‘y’), or the endorphin rush caused by eating something other than raw fruit.   No more stabby.

And yes, yes, I know that this breakfast lacks bacon.  It’s still curing.  Just wait; there will be multiple porkgasms!

Breakfast cost an exorbitant $1.38.  If you’ll excuse me, I need to go swim around in my vault of gold dubloons like Scrooge Mcduck.

Eat it, Denny’s!

Tagged: breakfastcharcuterieeaton30lack of bacontaters preciouscartoon ducksgold dubloons

13th October 2009

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uses for a whole chicken and my first real dinner, #eaton30

Once I regained access to my knives and tools, Eat On 30 started being really good to me.  First, I took apart the whole chicken:

(Roughly left to right: stock bones in bowl, organs and fat in small plastic bin, thigh meat and trim for sausage on the cutting board, breasts, tenderloins, wings and drumsticks in the large plastic bin.)

I then mixed the sausage meat chunks with some simple seasonings and garlic, chilled the chunks in the freezer (along with the grinder) and then made 9 ounces of peppery, garlic chicken sausage:

(My mix looked a little lean, so I chopped up some extra fat and tossed that in as well: you can see the white specks.  I then mixed it all up with a spoon to release the proteins that help it bind together.)

I also used vegetable trimmings, the bones, neck and a few cents’ worth of thyme and parsley to make a stock:

(Cooked this for 4 hours at a less-than-simmer temp, then strained to yield one quart.)

———

Dinner was exciting.  I made a kale, potato and chicken sausage soup (used 3 ounces of the sausage, browned in small spheres, and then cooked the veg in the rendered fat.  The cooking process yielded one of those taste-sacrificing decisions that I mentioned before: normally I would definitely have used the stock in this soup, but I realized that I could save the stock for a future recipe and use water in this one.  The starch from the potatoes gave the soup the body I wanted from the stock, and the flavors were all there.)

(A bowl of this soup — the pot has about 4 bowls’ worth — is $0.56.)

After a few days of stabbyhate-inducing bananas, this hit the spot.  And cost less than an apple or a large orange.

Money spent after 2 days: $1.63.

——-

Here’s my jotlist of meals I’m making from this chicken:

  • caldo verde w/ chicken sausage (above)
  • deconstructed paella w/ drumstick confit, squid, shrimp, black bean & corn
  • potato-leek soup (using the stock)
  • pasta w/ tomato & grilled chicken (possibly filled pasta?)
  • lentil & squid soup (stock use)
  • fried chicken wings, tenderloins, liver, heart and gizzard, w/ gravy
  • chicken breast salad w/ lardons
  • cabbage soup (stock use)
  • any remaining stock will be used to simmer pasta

Got way more than a week’s worth of recipes here!

Tagged: eaton30,cooking,chicken,charcuterie

12th October 2009

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on shopping for #eaton30

As I shopped for my ingredients yesterday, I found myself picking up some new habits.  Tami described the experience to me as ‘methodical,’ and I would definitely agree.

  • Every bit of produce was weighed
  • Every sale sticker was like a beacon
  • Every decision (or most of them, at least) involved a sacrifice in taste

The weight of items is simply not something I was always conscious of.  For instance, hollow items like chilis, even though the per-pound price was higher than that of, say, apples, ended up being almost negligible in cost.  (This message brought to you by Captain Obvious.)

The sale stickers, plus a little ingenuity, really help matters.  I bought the ‘bananas special’ (8 for $0.99) and have already thought of how to work with them as they age.   Banana bread could be in my future 5-6 days from now.

The last point is the one that is the most unfamiliar to me.  Those of you who know me are aware that I continually sacrifice budget, waistline and health in the sake of taste.  However, those organic sweet onions cost over twice as much as the conventional yellow onions.  We’ll see if a little extra time (or honey .. 1 cent per gram, essentially) can make up the difference.

Tami also mentioned an important rule, and one which I didn’t follow well enough: no impulse buying.  My big impulse buy was a small package of ‘special pork belly’ (the special nature is that the skin was still attached, and the price was pretty low, about $2/lb, so it remains within my budget.)  A little of that stuff goes a long, long way, and I currently have some curing in salt in the fridge.  Lardons will be on, in and around everything.  Poitrine de porc nature will make an appearance on my sandwiches.

(This is the not the belly I just bought, but my earlier batch of closet pancetta: the kind of madness that results when I am let near any amount of hog belly.)

Tagged: shoppingeaton30rationingpork

12th October 2009

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no access to my kitchen means that these have been my first 4 meals of #eaton30. (see also: stabby)

no access to my kitchen means that these have been my first 4 meals of #eaton30. (see also: stabby)

Tagged: bananashatredvengeancemurderdeathkillkillkillnutritioneaton30